I have to look carefully for a safe place to cross the stream.  Last thing I want to do is fall and break my leg out here in the middle of nowhere!  I did pass a couple of hikers on my way up, but I haven’t seen them since I left the wall.  I step across the stream and continue on along the trail.  And there it is, just ahead of me – Emily’s Penistone Crag.  I can’t believe it.  I’m here!  I found it!

I walk slowly toward the crag, take far too many photos.  I want to capture this moment so I can look back later and remember.  There are actually two stones jutting out from the hillside, but I think Emily’s must be the larger one further up.  There’s a hollow at the base that you can crawl through, and a wonderful legend attached to it – according to tradition, if a maiden passes through the hollowed stone she will marry within a year.  Guess I’ll stay single because there’s no way I’m scooting down to that hollow.  It’s far too steep and a good drop down.  But I walk onto the crag and sit.  Look out over the valley.  I can see Ponden Reservoir from here, just a silver sliver off in the distance.

Wow.  I’m actually here.  I pick a few wildflowers from the crag.  Think about Emily’s story.  I can feel how this place suffused her writing.  How it would begin to seep into my own if I lived here for very long.  It’s hard to get up and walk away, but I have a train to catch.  And it’s pretty lonely up here.  Time to leave.

Back in Haworth, I have lunch at the Black Bull Inn.  Charlotte’s brother Branwell was a regular here.  Sad story.  He seems to have struggled all his life to find a sense of purpose and died an alcoholic and opium addict at just 31.  I wonder if he didn’t feel shadowed by the success of his sisters.

I get the train from Haworth to Keighley, a lovely old-fashioned steam train.  Then back to London.  In just a few days I’ll be heading back across the Atlantic to New York.  And I think I can definitely say that Haworth is the part of my journey here that I’ll treasure the most.

The trail approaches the stream near Ponden Kirk - that lovely purple heather is everywhere!

     Crossing the stream that    runs toward Ponden Kirk

         Getting close now - the
            trail to Ponden Kirk

Up ahead - Ponden Kirk!

   Ponden Kirk - Emily's Penistone Crag

     Heading back to Haworth -
     a view of Ponden Kirk
     from across the valley


09/01/2013 8:41am

Ohhh, so breathtaking and other-worldly! Legendary.


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